如何擁有「水煮蛋肌」?
- Sleep: 充足的睡眠
- Nutrition: 均衡的飲食 (& 大量白開水)
- 蛋奶類是大忌
- Exercise: 規律的運動
Background Knowledge
- 臉部黃金酸鹼值 (pH 值) = 5.5
- 所以絕對不能用鹼性的「肥皂」洗臉，會造成「過度清潔」而破壞皮脂膜
- 「粉刺」和「痘痘」都是從「皮脂腺分泌的皮層油脂堵塞毛囊」發展而來的
- 關於「閉鎖性 (內包) 粉刺」
- 因為它沒有開口，必須比平常更用力才能擠出來，這時通常已經擠到「發炎」了，後續還有可能因為細菌「感染」而轉變成痘痘，進而形成痘疤，非常得不償失!
- 清除關鍵:「去除表面的角質堆積」
- 當毛孔有了開口後，粉刺就有自體/動浮出來的機會 (粉刺是一種代謝廢物，身體也不會再把它們吸收回去)
- 酸類
- 「治痘&抗痘」取向 (適合膚況不佳時擦)
- 水楊酸 (BHA, Salicylic Acid)
- 「抗老」取向 (適合膚況佳時擦)
- 果酸 (AHA)
- 乙醇酸/甘醇酸 (Glycolic Acid)
- A 酸
- 果酸 (AHA)
- ? 杏仁酸
- ? 杜鵑花酸
- ? 玻尿酸不是酸
- 「治痘&抗痘」取向 (適合膚況不佳時擦)
- [比較] 視黃醇 / 維 A 醇 / A 醇
- Retinol
- lower concentration of the active retinoic acid ingredient
- available over the counter (OTC)
- Retinoid
- higher concentration of the active retinoic acid ingredient
- often only available with a medical prescription
- Retinol
- 「刷酸煥膚」: 調理痘痘粉刺肌膚最好的辦法是「長期持續地」使用「弱酸性」產品，去除毛孔內堆積的老廢角質
- 大原則:「酸類保養品」不宜每天使用 (早 C 晚 A)，會過度清潔，易致痘，每周 2-3 次就好，可以跟「保濕類保養品」交互論替使用
Terminology
- Pimple 面皰/粉刺
- Acne 痘痘
- Dermatologists 皮膚科醫生
- Fragrance 芳香劑
- Exfoliate (v.) 去角質
- Exfoliant (n.) 脫落的死皮
- PA (= Protection Grade of UVA) → UVA 的防護能力
- SP (= Sun Protection Factor) 防曬係數 → UVB 的防護能力
- Cleanser 洗面乳
- Toner 化妝水
- Lotion/Misturizer 面霜/乳液/乳霜
- Essence (較稀 の) / Serum (較濃稠 の) 精華液
Brand
- CeraVe
- Eucerin
- La Roche-Posay (理膚寶水)
- Neutrogena (露得清)
Principles
步驟越簡單、保養品越少越好!
Goes (擦任何護膚品/保養品都要把握以下原則)
- Carefully and gently pat your face dry using finger tips until the skin is left slightly damp
- It takes only a minute or two more
- It avoids friction and hygiene issues
- 噴/擦完 Face Mist 或 Toner 後，務必要做「鎖水」的動作 (上面霜)
- Apply the cream into your skin using small, upward, circular motions
- Never drag downward on your skin!
- Why? As you age, gravity pulls your skin downward, causing sagging and wrinkles
No-goes (NG 動作)
- 過度清潔 (洗臉) /保養 (尤其是酸類)、頻繁醫美雷射、經常去角質 or 敷面膜
- Towel Drying
- 用手摸臉 (尤其是沒有洗手的時候)
- Touch face or mouth with dirty hands
- 用手擠壓或妙鼻貼拔除「閉鎖型 (內包)」粉刺
- 皺眉 (frown)
- Getting hair products on the face
正確的洗臉方式
- 洗臉時要用和人體體溫相近的「溫水」(約攝氏 25 度上下)
- ❗️避免使用熱水: 會導致皮膚乾燥和加速皮膚老化
- 從容易出油的 T 字部位開始塗抹泡沫
- 動作要輕柔: 潑溼 + 潑洗，以指腹在臉上畫圈按摩、輕輕按壓
Routine
🌞 早
- Cleanser
- 輕度清潔，把臉上的油光洗掉即可
- 用量約晚上的一半
- Anti-blackhead/points toner (粉刺調理水)
- Vitamin C
- Moisturizer
- 要在臉濕潤的狀態下使用，才能達到保濕的效果
- Don’t neglect your neck!
- ⭐ Sunscreen
- You should wear sunscreen every single day of the year, no matter what the weather is like, because when you are outside, you are constantly exposed to UV radiation
- Even when it’s cloudy/overcast days, UV rays can still penetrate through the clouds
- 防止 Photoaging & Skin cancer
- “Truck Driver Face”: the result of sun damage after years and massive hours behind the wheel driving a truck
- The easiest way is to sneak our sunscreen into the products we already wear every day (SPF moisturizers)
- Apply sunscreen when going out for long time. Do reapply every 3-4 hours or depending on the level of sun exposure.
- 選用有以下標示的防曬乳
- SPF 30-50
- PA++++
- Broad spectrum: UVA + UVB
- What about vitamin D? many studies have shown that oral vitamin D supplementation leads to more improvement in blood levels than sun exposure
- You should wear sunscreen every single day of the year, no matter what the weather is like, because when you are outside, you are constantly exposed to UV radiation
🌙 晚
- Cleanser
- Silicone Facial Cleasing Brush
- Gently move the brush over your face in circular movements
- The optimal application time per cleaning is 1 min, 20 sec per application area
- 徹底清潔重點部位
- 鼻翼 + 鼻頭
- T-zone
- U-zone (下巴)
- 臉頰部分輕柔地帶過就好
- Silicone Facial Cleasing Brush
- Peeling/Exfoliating Gel
- 每周一到兩次
- Retinol/Retinoid (Vitamin A)1 or 酸類 2 之精華液
- 擦之前要確保臉是乾的
- 用量抓豌豆大小即可
- Excellent daily addition to a skincare regimen for anyone who is not pregnant/breastfeeding
- Moisturizer
- 選擇溫和型、不含玻尿酸的面霜
- 可以減少精華液對皮膚的刺激
- Don’t neglect your neck!